Man Lives Pollution-Free in First Solar-Hydrogen House
Mike Strizki’s utility bill is zero, thanks to some creative thinking using renewable energy technologies. By using solar panels, a hydrogen fuel cell, storage tanks and an electrolyzer, he has enough electricity even on the cloudiest days. And Strizki isn’t a hermit living in the dark off of snails and rainwater, either. His 3,500 square foot house is located in central New Jersey on 12 acres, with amenities you’d see in any 21st century home, like a hot tub and big screen TV. His renewable energy system even creates hydrogen he uses to power his fuel-cell car.
So how does he produce zero emissions?
On a sunny day, Strizki can get more than enough of his electricity from the solar panels. The excess goes to an electrolyzer that then breaks down a tank of water into oxygen and hydrogen. The oxygen is released into the atmosphere, but the hydrogen is stored in 10 1,000-gallon propane tanks. So when the solar panels aren’t producing enough energy, the hydrogen is piped to an air-conditioner-sized fuel cell that makes electricity.
The fuel-cell car in the garage is called “The New Jersey Genesis” and Strizki – a civil engineer – helped design the car and maintains it for the NJ Department of Transportation. He fills it up with the hydrogen made from his electrolyzer.
This sort of system isn’t going to be available commercially for the rest of us anytime soon. Strizki’s project is extremely expensive - $500,000, paid for in part with a $250,000 grant from the NJ Board of Public Utilities.
Strizki acknowledges that the enormous cost is a huge hurdle, but believes that, with mass production, the price of the system (not including solar panels) would be about $50,000 and the new solar system would be around $80,000 (some states like NJ offer rebates that cover up to 70 percent of the solar’s cost).
Then there’s the question of efficiency. Critics point out that electrolyzers are only 50 percent efficient. By the time the process is complete, the hydrogen that is converted back into electricity is only half of the energy with which the process started. Sending that power back to the grid, some say, would be more effective because it would displace other dirty energy sources.
Strizki has created a company called Renewable Energy International that engineers, installs, and supports renewable energy systems like his. Despite its costs and efficiency questions, he still believes that hydrogen is the best solution to our clean energy problems. “No one has said what I’m doing doesn’t work…Nothing is as wildly expensive as destroying the whole planet.”
Christian Science monitor, Via the Modesto Bee
Renewable Energy International
March 16th, 2007 at 7:23 pm
That would be a neat alternative to batteries for remote off-grid sites.
March 18th, 2007 at 11:47 am
MANDATORY RENEWABLE ENERGY – THE ENERGY EVOLUTION –R13
In order to insure energy and economic independence as well as better economic growth without being blackmailed by foreign countries, our country, the United States of America’s Utilization of Energy Sources must change.
“Energy drives our entire economy.” We must protect it. “Let’s face it, without energy the whole economy and economic society we have set up would come to a halt. So you want to have control over such an important resource that you need for your society and your economy.” The American way of life is not negotiable.
Our continued dependence on fossil fuels could and will lead to catastrophic consequences.
The federal, state and local government should implement a mandatory renewable energy installation program for residential and commercial property on new construction and remodeling projects with the use of energy efficient material, mechanical systems, appliances, lighting, retrofits etc. The source of energy must be by renewable energy such as Solar-Photovoltaic, Geothermal, Wind, Biofuels, Ocean-Tidal, Hydrogen-Fuel Cell etc. This includes the utilizing of water from lakes, rivers and oceans to circulate in cooling towers to produce air conditioning and the utilization of proper landscaping to reduce energy consumption. (Sales tax on renewable energy products and energy efficiency should be reduced or eliminated)
The implementation of mandatory renewable energy could be done on a gradual scale over the next 10 years. At the end of the 10 year period all construction and energy use in the structures throughout the United States must be 100% powered by renewable energy. (This can be done by amending building code)
In addition, the governments must impose laws, rules and regulations whereby the utility companies must comply with a fair “NET METERING” (the buying of excess generation from the consumer at market price), including the promotion of research and production of “renewable energy technology” with various long term incentives and grants. The various foundations in existence should be used to contribute to this cause.
A mandatory time table should also be established for the automobile industry to gradually produce an automobile powered by renewable energy. The American automobile industry is surely capable of accomplishing this task. As an inducement to buy hybrid automobiles (sales tax should be reduced or eliminated on American manufactured automobiles).
This is a way to expedite our energy independence and economic growth. (This will also create a substantial amount of new jobs). It will take maximum effort and a relentless pursuit of the private, commercial and industrial government sectors’ commitment to renewable energy – energy generation (wind, solar, hydro, biofuels, geothermal, energy storage (fuel cells, advance batteries), energy infrastructure (management, transmission) and energy efficiency (lighting, sensors, automation, conservation) (rainwater harvesting, water conservation) (energy and natural resources conservation) in order to achieve our energy independence.
“To succeed, you have to believe in something with such a passion that it becomes a reality.”
Jay Draiman, Energy Consultant
Northridge, CA. 91325
Mar. 18, 2007
P.S. I have a very deep belief in America’s capabilities. Within the next 10 years we can accomplish our energy independence, if we as a nation truly set our goals to accomplish this.
I happen to believe that we can do it. In another crisis–the one in 1942–President Franklin D. Roosevelt said this country would build 60,000 [50,000] military aircraft. By 1943, production in that program had reached 125,000 aircraft annually. They did it then. We can do it now.
“the way we produce and use energy must fundamentally change.”
The American people resilience and determination to retain the way of life is unconquerable and we as a nation will succeed in this endeavor of Energy Independence.
The Oil Companies should be required to invest a substantial percentage of their profit in renewable energy R&D and implementation. Those who do not will be panelized by the public at large by boy cutting their products.
Solar energy is the source of all energy on the earth (excepting volcanic geothermal). Wind, wave and fossil fuels all get their energy from the sun. Fossil fuels are only a battery which will eventually run out. The sooner we can exploit all forms of Solar energy (cost effectively or not against dubiously cheap FFs) the better off we will all be. If the battery runs out first, the survivors will all be living like in the 18th century again.
Every new home built should come with a solar package. A 1.5 kW per bedroom is a good rule of thumb. The formula 1.5 X’s 5 hrs per day X’s 30 days will produce about 225 kWh per bedroom monthly. This peak production period will offset 17 to 2
4 cents per kWh with a potential of $160 per month or about $60,000 over the 30-year mortgage period for a three-bedroom home. It is economically feasible at the current energy price and the interest portion of the loan is deductible. Why not?
Title 24 has been mandated forcing developers to build energy efficient homes. Their bull-headedness put them in that position and now they see that Title 24 works with little added cost. Solar should also be mandated and if the developer designs a home that solar is impossible to do then they should pay an equivalent mitigation fee allowing others to put solar on in place of their negligence. (Installation should be paid “performance based”).
Installation of renewable energy and its performance should be paid to the installer and manufacturer based on “performance based” (that means they are held accountable for the performance of the product - that includes the automobile industry). This will gain the trust and confidence of the end-user to proceed with such a project; it will also prove to the public that it is a viable avenue of energy conservation.
Installing a renewable energy system on your home or business increases the value of the property and provides a marketing advantage. It also decreases our trade deficit.
Nations of the world should unite and join together in a cohesive effort to develop and implement MANDATORY RENEWABLE ENERGY for the sake of humankind and future generations.
The head of the U.S. government’s renewable energy lab said Monday (Feb. 5) that the federal government is doing “embarrassingly few things” to foster renewable energy, leaving leadership to the states at a time of opportunity to change the nation’s energy future. “I see little happening at the federal level. Much more needs to happen.” What’s needed, he said, is a change of our national mind set. Instead of viewing the hurdles that still face renewable sources and setting national energy goals with those hurdles in mind, we should set ambitious national renewable energy goals and set about overcoming the hurdles to meet them. We have an opportunity, an opportunity we can take advantage of or an opportunity we can squander and let go,”
solar energy - the direct conversion of sunlight with solar cells, either into electricity or hydrogen, faces cost hurdles independent of their intrinsic efficiency. Ways must be found to lower production costs and design better conversion and storage systems.
FEDERAL BUILDINGS WITH SOLAR ENERGY – Renewable Energy
All government buildings, Federal, State, County, City etc. should be mandated to be energy efficient and must use renewable energy on all new structures and structures that are been remodeled/upgraded.
“The goverment should serve as an example to its citizens”
Jay Draiman, Energy Consultant
Northridge, CA 91325
Email: renewableenergy2@msn.com
May 23rd, 2007 at 1:20 pm
I am glad to see that people don’t wait for the pollution to kill us…It’s a start it’s true but i think in few years this will become a global trend if it’s hadn’t already has. It’s not such a difficult mechanism and whit time it will become less expensive, i know that.
February 9th, 2008 at 2:44 pm
[...] Inspiring Case Studies [...]
April 10th, 2008 at 3:40 pm
the cost may not be the greatest, but someone has to start ideas
July 30th, 2008 at 6:06 am
Reduce Your Energy Bills
Nearly 30 years have passed since the first oil crisis gave Americans an indelible lesson in energy deprivation. Yet many homeowners still don’t realize how much energy seeps out of their houses every day despite the steps they might have taken. According to experts, many homes — including new ones — act more like sieves than like sealed buildings.
“What we’ve learned about basic energy efficiency isn’t readily available to homeowners, builders and contractors,” says The Energy Expert.
The reason is clear enough: Because much of that knowledge was developed for low-income housing as part of the federal Weatherization Assistance Program, it hasn’t yet reached the mainstream housing industry. Nevertheless, it includes a number of findings that affect all homes.
For example, because hot air rises, most heat lost in a building goes right through the roof. What causes that heat loss? Leaks in attic floors are the culprit, lowering the R-value of attic insulation and draining 30 to 50 percent of a home’s heating energy. And while leaks around windows and doors let out far less energy than you probably thought, gaps in forced-air ducts can cut home heating and cooling efficiency 40 percent.
Fortunately, making your home more energy efficient isn’t rocket science. A couple of weekends sealing the attic and furnace ducting using materials that cost less than $50 on average will slash up to 30 percent off your energy bill.
Sealing the Attic
To save energy immediately, begin by sealing the gaps that lead from your living areas to the attic. Some of these gaps accommodate wiring and pipes, while others result from poor craftsmanship and the normal settling of the building. But all of them serve as passageways for heated air to escape.
That’s because houses act like big chimneys. Warm air rises to top of the building, increasing air pressure near the ceiling. The difference between that pressure and the lower pressure outside on a cold day drives the warm air through any crack, crevice or gap it can find. The high pressure at the top also creates low pressure near the bottom of the house, which pulls cold air in through openings around the foundation or slab.
Energy experts call this the stack effect. The larger the spread between inside and outside temperatures, the greater the pressure differences and the stronger its pull. However, if you have mold or condensation problems in your home during winter, don’t do any sealing until you’ve tackled the moisture situation.
What insulation can’t do. An insulated attic isn’t necessarily a sealed attic. Insulating materials are designed to slow down heat loss through solid materials rather than to stop airflow. Insulation works with weatherizing to create a thermal boundary between the inside and outside of your home. Unfortunately, most homeowners pay attention solely to the insulation part of the equation. “Half the money people pay for insulation is often lost due to leaks,” says The Energy Expert and the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE). “If homeowners sealed the attic floor before insulating, they would save a lot more energy.”
Filling the gaps. Spotting the holes and gaps you need to seal is easy in an un-insulated attic. Lay planks across joists and stay on them so you don’t step through the ceiling. Then check for gaps around anything that comes through the floor. Examples include the tops of light fixtures, pipes, wiring, the chimney and heating and cooling ducts. Also check for gaps around the top plates of interior partitions.
If your attic is insulated, you’ll need to roll back batts to get at the gaps. Wear pants and long sleeves, gloves, eye protection, and a dust mask. Gray or black smudges in the insulation signal air leaks. If your attic is insulated with loose-fill insulation, which can’t be peeled back, you might want to call a professional weatherization contractor to locate the leaks. Then seal as many of them as possible.
• Instead of insulation, use latex caulk to fill gaps up to about 3/8 inch wide. For holes up to about 1 inch wide, use expanding urethane foam (it comes in a can). Be careful — the foam is hard to get off of clothes and hands. A new latex sealant from DAP ($3.50 per 12-oz. can) cleans up with soap and water.
• For larger holes, create a plug from a piece of drywall. Cut it to fill the hole, push it into place and then seal the edges with urethane foam. Or, use fiberglass insulation stuffed into plastic bags.
• Seal gaps around chimneys and stove flues with a sheet-metal collar and caulk.
• Insulate and apply weather stripping around the edges of the hatch or door that leads to the attic.
• On cathedral ceilings, apply caulk in spots where drywall meets exposed beams.
Where to Add Insulation
Once you’ve air-sealed the attic, be sure insulation meets DOE standard. The standard for most of the U.S. is R-38. Call the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy clearinghouse (800-363-3732) for the recommendation for your area.
If you need to add more insulation on top of the old, use un-faced batts or loose fill. Owens Corning and Johns Manville make a batt encased in plastic for easy handling.
You can also reduce heat loss by insulating over light fixtures in the rooms below your attic — provided you replace the standard recessed versions with fixtures rated “IC,” for insulated ceiling. To prevent airflow, buy IC fixtures that also have an air- and moisture-tight housing. They’re available from most major lighting companies. Halo also offers an airtight retrofit collar for its IC fixtures.
Detecting Duct Leaks
Leaky ductwork in a forced-air heating and cooling system creates several problems. A supply duct that leaks into an attic or crawl space pours cooled or heated air — and the money you paid for it — into the void. Leaky return ducts pull hot or cold attic or crawl space air into the system. Indeed, a duct that runs through the attic can pull in 140 Fair in summer, making the cooling system work that much harder. It also pulls in dust, moisture, mold, and other contaminates.
Start by reconnecting any ducts that have fallen apart. Then hunt for holes in supply ducts by feeling for the air as it leaks out and seeing if a tissue clings to return ducts as air is sucked in. Use duct mastic (available in cans or caulking tubes) to seal small gaps. For larger ones, reinforce the mastic with fiberglass mesh tape. You can also use UL-181 aluminum tape — essentially professional duct tape. Just don’t use the cloth variety labeled duct tape, which really isn’t for ducts.
Return and supply ducts should also be pressure-balanced for forced-air systems to work efficiently. Leaks upset that balance, and can drive heated or cooled air out of the house or pull outside air in. Unfortunately, sealing only some of the leaks can do the same thing. Have the system inspected by a pro when you’re done to be sure you didn’t miss any.
After the ducts are sealed, be sure any that run through unconditioned crawl spaces, basements, or attics also are insulated. Insulating long runs of ductwork is best left to a contractor. But you can handle short runs yourself with foil-faced fiberglass duct insulation. Cover all sides and secure the insulation with a cable tie.
Note: Have a pro perform a back-draft test before and after you work on the ducts.
Getting Audited
If your energy bill still seems too high, get a professional energy audit. Be sure it includes a blower-door test. Without it, the contractor can only guess at your energy problems. Essentially a large fan, a blower door pulls most of the air out of the house to pinpoint outside air leaking through holes and cracks. The technician locates the gaps, measures their size, and provides options for sealing them.
A blower-door test costs about $100, though some contractors will do it for free if you ultimately choose them to do the sealing work. But it’s hard to find a company that performs this type of test. Contact your local utility, state energy office, weatherization contractors, and home inspectors for leads on finding someone in your area.
Finally, don’t seal the foundation completely. A good weatherization contractor will seal it just enough to stop serious leaks without cutting off the air needed for combustion appliances, like furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces, ranges, and dryers.
Other Ways to Save
Once you have sealed the yawning chasms throughout your home, go after the details.
• Replace single-pane windows with low-e units rated R-3 (also listed as U.40) or higher, says The Energy Expert and the U.S. Department of Energy. “You’ll cut 20 percent or more off your heating or cooling bills,” Lamb explains.
• While leaks around windows bleed relatively little energy (except in exposed, windy areas), seal any obvious gaps. You’ll find the largest ones between the window frame and the rough opening in the framing of your home. Use expanding foam (sold in cans) for best results.
• Invest in a set-back thermostat. You can slice your energy bill up to 15 percent simply by setting the temperature back 10 F for an eight-hour period.
• Install wall insulation. When properly installed, cellulose and lightweight foam products reduce heat loss and air leaks.
• Install attic fan and or Whole House Fan.
• Replace lighting with CFL or LED
• Replace old appliances and HVAC with energy efficient appliances.
• Shade Southern and Western exposure during the summer (with trees or shades)
Where To Find It:
Energy Savers
9420 Reseda Blvd., Unit 274
Northridge, CA 91324
847-274-3108
http://www.energysavers2.com
Compiled by: Jay Draiman